I am looking for some info on puting a DT in a 560. I know you have to lengthen the frame rails and sheet metal, but thats not what I am worried about I am worried about the back plate/flywheel/clutch/starter situation and the steering situation. It will not be puting out alot of power just looking to put a 436 in my grandpas 560 for a parade/fun tractor, I brought this idea across him he said it would be a fun project I just need to find more information. Pictures and info are much appreciated
The oem rear plate from any 66-86 series using a 400 series engine will work on a 560.You will want to cut or mill 1" off of each side to make it flush with the outside of your 560 bell housing but other than that bolts up perfectly.As for clutch,call Karl @ Atlas Tractor he can fix you up with a clutch package but may take a while.Good luck with your project
Put a wet bolster from an 06/56 series in place of the 560 bolster. Find either a steering hand pump from an 06/56 series & a steering direction valve from an 815/915 combine, or, find a steering hand pump from a 66/86 series, and plumb the steering accordingly. You'll successfully eliminate the steering shaft problem, and you can do it all with IH parts. I've installed a wet bolster in my 560, and it's a fun tractor to drive, it's just like driving my 1206 or 1256
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2016 02:21PM by Blackstack1206.
Use a 966 (or similar) rear plate. The 966 flywheel will have to be machined to fit the 560 ring gear. The trans side of the ring gear needs to be 5/8" deeper into the flywheel than the 966 ring gear was. The 560 ring gear is thicker, so add that difference when machining the ring gear area. Have a 1 1/2" spacer made to go between the crankshaft and flywheel. Use a 966/986 (12") clutch. If you do all this, the 560 starter will work, and everything bolts up like factory. Use a 560 pilot bearing. The tractor front plate will have to be narrowed 1" on each side to fit between the frame rails, and the lower bolt hole area needs to be cut back to clear the lower frame web. Drill a 3/4" hole in the frame to line up with the remaining mount holes. If you don't use a turbo, you can use the factory fuel tank. Just dent it to clear the rear of the cylinder head. Fuel pump is on the wrong side, so fab up some linkage. Lower rad outlet is also on the wrong side, but a couple of 90 degree hose bends, and a slightly bent piece of 2" exhaust tubing will fix that. Use a 966 upper hose. I stretched my frame and hood 6 3/8", but mine's a Wheatland, so the bolster gets in the way of the lower pulley. Rowcrop doesn't have that issue. Trim off the blades of a 966 fan, and the 560 fan shroud will work fine. Cut a new exhaust hole in the hood, and make some fuel lines. Away you go! Email me at kbtoolz@gmail.com if you have any questions. I can get some pics for you if needed.
No, I don't think there is enough room in the flywheel housing to handle the original diameter of the 966 flywheel. The spacer is needed to bring the flywheel/clutch back far enough to mate with the trans input shaft and pump/PTO drive.
