Just check the temp at our place in Southern MN.. and its -22... good thing were in TX.. its only +14 here... haha...
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Adam.. I took this pic a few years ago.. And it's a 4010... And probably was an early one with the light axle housings.. I never got to see it pull.. But had to be 5500 or less.. Lots of AL on their.. And they did a nice job..
And maybe it was a 3010/3020 rear end.. I don't know that we ever figured out.. If you follow the thread Brian Lively posted his name.. And where he was f
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JDGnut
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Try to find a 55 series engine so you will have the 55 series head.. Also try to find one that all ready has a P pump mount.. (Depending on you class)
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I don't know the steering valve you are trying to use.. If its an open center valve than you will be fine with the belt driving pump.. But you will need a relief valve if there is to one built into the pump or steering valve. If the steering valve is a closed center.. You will be going over relief all the time.. And possibly over heat.. (Probably not with the short time you will be running
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The smaller pump should be easier to turn.. But it's going to take more turns to get the job done.. If you hook up a pump (supply pressure) turning force will not be an issue.. You need to size the pump for the amount of turns lock to lock..
If the pump is going to put out 1.7 cu in per turn.. You need to figure the working surface area of the cylinder.. With the stroke Then you can calc
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I wouldn't limited them by the safety equipment..
On the turbo limit... If you limit them to smooth bore covers.. Many of the factory turbos had slots.. You'll have to limit it to factory slots or unmofidied slots.. Or just put a limit on the width of the slot... (More work for your tech crew.)
(For an all out pulling class.. Smooth bore is the way to go.. But for factory or farm s
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I Ike it better than the 329/359.. Bigger crank journals, taller deck.. Better options for injectors, better intake inlets.. I've personally never tried to make a puller out of one.. But had a friend or two that have run the 414/6.8L's.. All were limited rpms and had good luck with them..
That's a good price.. Wish I had a need for one right now..
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JDGnut
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3150? I think they all had the 359.. I know the 4050 had both the 359 and the 466...
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JDGnut
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The bigger issue will be the chassis that you are going to put the engine into... since the 359 and 404 have a different bolt pattern... If you can decube, you could also look at the 414 (6.8L) (this will have the same pattern as the 359...
I can't remember the application.. but I'm pretty sure there was an application for the 359 with the big bodied injectors... (I Know the 6.8L
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We have always used the Aqua Tiger pumps with good luck for coolant pumps.... But have been looking at the Meziere pumps and saw the CVR Proflo pumps.. 55 gpms is a lot of flow for an electric pump..
Anyone tried one??
Thanks,
Bryan
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I've never seen the parts you are talking about.. The open station was similar to what you have now.. But with out some of the frame work.. I think if you want to really cut the weight down.. You are going to take the cab off.. And build a plat form.. Save the complete steering column with the brakes and all.. And the right side shifter/throttle housing.. Buy a set of fenders from one off t
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JDGnut
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If you are going to use open station parts.. Just take the complete cab off?? Do you have the complete open operators station?
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JDGnut
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I always thought the 4230-4630's were the same.. But after looking them up.. You are correct.. The 2955 shows the mounting bolts the same width as the 4230 extension.. (Nose)
The 42-4455 nose has the same mounting width as the 4430.. (R98631) the total width where the decals are on the nose cone would be about 1.96 ft..
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Brian.. I believe Neb Busch pullers gave the OK for EFI in their Mod class.. It will be interesting to see what next season brings..
The ability to automatically control the mixture.. Boost controller, timing control would be nice.. RPM limiter for drivetrain breakage.. If you saved one engine I would think you would have padded for the system..
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Thanks guys... This looks to be the correct O-Ring if you have the 2.25 Diameter Pistons.. (I found two different sizes of pistons and Orings in the parts book..) I'll have to check mine tonight..
ID of 56.515mm (2.225 In)
Cross of 5.334mm (.21 In)
Viton® fluoroelastomer resists chemicals and oil. Temperature range is -15° to +400° F. Durometer hardness is A75. Meets ASTM D2000/
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Not to drag up another old Brake thread... but
What do you use for O-Rings that will handle the brake fuild on the factory brake pistons.. (JD 4020) What type of material do I need to look for?
Thanks
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JDGnut
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Not small business.. But our deductible when up $200 and Copay went up $2000 starting Jan 1...
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JDGnut
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Just use the intake and exhaust from the 55 series tractors (4455).. That will give you the T4 flange.. (You should be able to just change half the manifold.. I can't remember on the 30 series.. You can from the later manifold.. You can use the 7810, but you will have to make an adapter to roll the turbo over to keep it under the hood..
Edit.. I had to correct my model numbers.. Intake R8
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JDGnut
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Anyone know if this going to aired again.. And was it a regional airing???
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JDGnut
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Pro Farm turbo rules 2014: One turbocharger of any size. Good Luck!!!
I love it.. Nice and simple..
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JDGnut
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You can also drop your hitch if you don't have the HP for the gear you have to run.. Loosing weight is doing basically the same thing..
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JDGnut
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Do a search.. there will be quite a list of people to go to get this done.. or to get the parts from...
Here's a link to an that Allen Ulmer posted in the ad section.. with pictures.. you can see where they cut down the shaft for the needle bearings.
J&R Machine did mine.
or you can find them at ulmerracing.com
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JDGnut
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The 4455 engine will be also be an A pump block.. Depends on your class..
Can you decube to 466??
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JDGnut
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If you are going to use the stock parts that are in the 404...
If you have to rebuild the 404.. might as well be putting the parts in a 466.. cost won't be much or any different..
If you are looking at going to a P pump.. no sense in spending the money on an A pump..
You might get more $$$ for your 404 in running condition...
If you are just going to turn the screws to the pump yo
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I would like to have tried the quad.. Just to try it.. It would be nice to be able to shift.. But In the end I think I would have wanted a 3 speed.. I got a good offer from someone to build one.. And couldn't pass it up.. It depends on how far you are going to go.. If you go to a dry clutch.... Most end up with a 4020 clutch housing.. So again.. I just started there.. Costing more $$$
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JDGnut
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Does it have to be a tractor engine?? Or just a CID limit..
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Yes.. That was my plan too.. But 750-1200 for the 7.5... Or 36-4200 for a 3 speed.. I just did right the first time.. But I would like to have tried it with a quad.. But just decided to start with the 4020 instead.. ( other was 4230) the perma clutch mods will be the same.. The 2 speed will hold but can be upgraded with extra clutches and plates with a little work.. Now I'm saving for a go
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The quad just adds a 2 speed to the syncro.. (Basically..) they problem as stated.. 7th will be too slow.. 8th too fast.. The quad will help split the gap.. Or you can go to 4010 finals if you need to speed up 7th.. If you search on here.. KTA and others have listed how to build the 2 speed..
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JDGnut
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What are you going to do with the tractor.. The D will have an open center hydraulic system.. The smaller M's have the option of a gear pump with load sense.. (Open center with load sense.. PC pressure compensated system) or closed center with load sense.. PFC pressure flow compensated.. The larger M's will all have the PFC systems..
I think it's a 20-25% increase in price.. But a
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Are you still using the front hydraulic pump?? If not just route the oil inside the case for lube only and not build the extra pressure.
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