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Success - 12 years ago
I tried the suggestion to anneal the pins, then drill and tap. After heating and cooling a few times with the torch, the drilling and tapping went fairly easily. Then I used some big 1" washers as spacers over the pins, then ran in a 1/2"-13 grade 8 bolt with a nut and a 1/2" washer up against the big spacer washers. From there I literally just cranked the pins out with the nut. No additional
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Ian Radtke
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I'm trying to take off my 3-point arms on my 1066, and I'm finding that getting the front pins out of the lower arms is not a 5 minute job. I've heard the usual heat, beat, repeat approach, but it seems that the real key is getting some leverage to pull or twist them out after heating. I tried drilling out and tapping the grease fitting hole to thread in a rod to use with a slide
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Ian Radtke
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I need a new chrome stack for my 1066, as the one I have now is all rainbowed and tarnished looking. Where do I find a nice double-walled 4" x 36" chrome stack? I see that several of the online tractor parts houses sell a curved version that looks nice, but obviously that won't work for pulling. Any ideas? Am I better off making my own? Thanks.
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Ian Radtke
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Unfortunately I won't be able to make it to your event this year because I will be on vacation, but If you have it again next year I will definitely have my calendar marked. I am very excited to see this type of farm stock pulling in the Peoria area.
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Ian Radtke
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I bought a complete fuel system all togther, which included 13mm rotary (380ish CC) and what I believe were 4 x 0.032 injector tips. It seemed like WAY too much tip for how much fuel I had. Plus they were only cracking at like 2800 psi. Lots of white smoke when idling, and overall just didn't seem to run well. I had John rework my injectors, puting in the 5 hole tips and setting them to
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Ian Radtke
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5 x 0.018 is exactly what I had John do for me for my farm stock IH. Tremendous improvement in power over the injectors I had before. As others have stated, very good to work with and very reasonable price for the work he did for me. I highly recommend him.
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Ian Radtke
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Thanks for the information. I'll send you an email so you can add me to your list.
I think my setup would generally fit with what you are proposing. I am at 466 cubes, with 13mm rotary, 3LM, uncut tires. Pretty standard stuff. The one thing I've found is that most of the farm stock rules in this area don't allow 20.8 x 42 tires, which is what I have now, so I might have to
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Ian Radtke
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toolz, I'm interested in this new class that you've mentioned in this thread. I live near Eureka, IL and am trying to scope out my options for farm stock type pulls in central IL. I used to pull in a MPH class with a club up in western Michigan, but now I've moved to IL and would like to start pulling again, though I'm not sure how soon.
Will this new class be affiliate
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Ian Radtke
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I used to pull with a club back in western Michigan in a 13,000 lb farm stock class that was 5 MPH. The rules were pretty vague. No cube limit, 3000 rpm, stock appearing fuel system, stock "size" turbo (i.e. basically whatever you wanted), any size tires (uncut), cast wheels. I ran a IH with a 466, 13mm rotary, 3LM turbo, which put me maybe in the 500 hp range. I won the points with that setu
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Ian Radtke
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Anyone ever been to an NQS Pull? They have various classes of lawn-mower type chassis pullers, nearly all of which run basically the same parts that come from a handful of builders. Single cylinder Kohler blocks, Cub-Cadet 3-speed trans-axle, Cepek tires, etc. They all sound the same, handle the same, and the top 3/4 of the class are within 1 foot of the same distance. Sure, they have differe
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Ian Radtke
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