Aneroid on a 4440 May 06, 2010 03:14AM
Just picked up a 78 4440 JD 220hp. Looking to do some pulling but still plan to farm with it. Heard people talk about removing the aneroid, I plan to give it a turn or two to play and back it off after the occasional weekend. With that my questions are- How to remove the aneroid? Will i be able to still due some farming without it or will i have to reinstall it?

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 06, 2010 03:27AM
Using a 10mm wrench, remove the 4 screws that fasten it to the intermediate governor housing and discard. All it does is reduce fuel delivery at no, or low boost conditions. In lamens terms, you don't need it. You will need an 1/8" pipe plug to block off the boost supply line on the intake manifold.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 07, 2010 05:33AM
best way is to remove it as pump dr stated, then take bolt out of the bottom of it, then put the aneroid housing back on. covers the hole, and looks stock, just wont hook to anything anymore. would be a good idea to block the boost from coming in, in case the diaphragm leaks, you won't lose some boost. or you can simply remove the line, and plug the port in the manifold, after you've re-installed the aneroid, or take your boost readings from there. I personally like to make things look stock. JMHO, Ed.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 07, 2010 07:17AM
A 4440 stock is 130 hp. If you are turning 220, you may want to look at stopping there if you want to farm with it

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 07, 2010 11:02AM
Thanks for the help. I also like keeping things in stock appearance. Yes 220 is plenty over stock but figured a extra turn and turned back after the night of fun would probably be acceptable.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 07, 2010 11:23AM
We had a 4440 that ran 225 hp with an intercooler from the day it was new. It was an 1981 and sold it in 1999. Only part ever fixed on the tractor was the radiator. Those tractors run forever and use no oil.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 07, 2010 12:07PM
be careful turning the fuel screw in as you will eventually get far enough to have the plungers go into the retard to start notch. definitely dont want that! will melt down! Ed.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 04:05AM
Thanks Ed. Any Ideas how many threads should still be showing before the lock nut? Obviously don't want to damage the pump for a night on the town.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 04:48AM
Ideally you should take the tractor to your local JD dealer, or whoever has the closest pto dyno and set it that way. Unless you want to take the pump off, and have it set on a diesel pump stand.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 06:55AM
I have a AW true test.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 07:59AM
Well there you go.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 08:15AM
I never tried this, but it looks to me all you have to do is remove the oil pressure lead to the cross shaft right below the aneroid effectively disengaging the lever that puts pressure on the rack and allowing the rack to work as though the aneroid wasn't there.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 09:23AM
Actually yes, that would also work. Then install a new oil feed line.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 12:38PM
simplest way is to remove the bolt in bottom of the aneroid. its a special bolt with a flanged jam nut. If you re-do the oil supply, the governor will not get the spillover from the aneroid activation shaft. It can be ok for a puller, but not a field tractor. HTH, Ed.

Re: Aneroid on a 4440 May 09, 2010 02:35PM
Where do you get your information from? How in the hell do you think oil gets in the governor on pumps without the LDA? Sufficient oil flows through the tapered roller bearing on the camshaft and runs level with the oil return hole in the bearing endplate at the front of the pump. He is perfectly fine running this pump YEAR ROUND bypassing the LDA.

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