Building classic modified August 29, 2011 10:25AM
Thinking about building a classic modified. I have both a 460 and a Super M and am wondering which might be better to use for it. This would be a 360 Cu. in. limit motor, carburetor only , no high rise, 18.4 tire limit, 5500 and 5700 lbs. What are the advantages to each tractor? How do the gear ratios compare? Can build tube frame, can lengthen wheelbase by 1 foot over stock, 460 is about 6" longer. Thinking the 460 might make a sharper looking tractor, but have never seen one (in person) built this way. Or would there be some other tractor that would be better? I know where there is a 444 Massey chassis, but no sheet metal( have to run stock sheet metal for rearend used).
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Re: Building classic modified August 29, 2011 10:57AM
Can you have a automatic and the tractor gearbox? Or just the tractor gears with a clutch?
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Re: Building classic modified August 29, 2011 12:10PM
You can run an automatic, but can't shift while in motion. Some are doing that, some are running a clutch and a four or five speed truck tranny in between, and some are going straight into the tractor tranny.
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Re: Building classic modified August 29, 2011 01:56PM
We run an M. We run 4th gear with 530 HPs small block ford. we doubled 4th gear running 20.8.34's. we run a crower slipper clutch leave your email and i can send picks
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 01:33AM
Been giving this some thought myself, and my choice of tractor to build is going to come down to a question of gearing. If anyone out there knows the actual gear ratios for say M Farmall, Oliver 88, U Moline, 44 Massey Harris, etc, or knows where to find them, I'd sure appreciate the info. Not "xxx mph with xxx tire at rated rpm", but the actual ratio of the ring and pinion, bull gears, and respective speed gears. Thanks.
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 03:10AM
4th gear in an m is 45 to 1 think the massey 44 in 3rd gear is 45 to 1
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 05:50AM
The best I can remember, its been 25 years, ran doubled M (not super M) 4th and second in the turbo 400 somthing like 64 or 65 to 1.
then went to a Super M 3rd and shifted to drive in the auto was faster just, high 50's (I think) did not live to long with the big block, went to a 44 massey, had a fast 1st gear and ran drive in the auto somthing like 52 to1 had to shift back to 2nd on a good track when the box went over center. At the end it was doubled 44 massey second and second in the auto, all I now it was a little to slow Had 24.5 x 32 @ 5800-6200 and 6500lb. Wish I my notes from back then. They let you shift the auto back then.
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 06:29AM
My thinking is I'd like to run the tractor trans in direct (since direct will likely be the strongest gear in any of them) and tune the gearing with another gearbox between the engine and tractor trans. This is why I would like to know the ring and pinion and bull gear ratios of the different makes and models. Thanks for the input.
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 08:18AM
Cockshutt rear is unbeatable.
If you are going to run "something" between the engine and tractor trans, make it a pro fab, then the ratio in the tractor part matters less. Actually if you can do that, I'd throw the tractor trans gears away and get a thru shaft made to go from the pro fab to the pinion.
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 08:38AM
For this example, engine and tire size and weight class listed in the first post, what would be a starting point for the gearing? Any thoughts?
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Re: Building classic modified August 30, 2011 09:34AM
I have exactly what "builder" is describing, Tube frame. Rear end with straight shaft to a Profab trans. Post your e-mail and I will send you some photos.
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Re: Building classic modified August 31, 2011 02:33AM
Wayne S - If you'd send those pics to jeh77@dishmail.net, I'd sure like to see them.

Builder - you are thinking pretty much what I'm thinking, except I'd like to have changeable spur gears in that gearbox if possible. Just trying to get an idea of what reduction will be necessary in the intermediate trans, therefore the need to know final drive ratios. Just curious, what model of Cockshutt are you talking about, and why is it better than a comparable Oliver?
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Re: Building classic modified August 31, 2011 03:54AM
The pro fab 3 speed single countershaft transmission has quick change gears in it, so if one were to do some math wrong, or step up his horsepower, he could change the output ratio if he wanted.
The 570 is a very heavy duty set up, and is beefier than the 88 or super 88. That said, the 88 or super 88 (or 880) would hold up just fine for a small block set up.
Actually, there may be room inside the transmission case on the 570 Cockshutt to "hide" the pro fab in there, just like the pro stock, SF and antique SS tractors do.
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Re: Building classic modified December 19, 2017 07:57AM
look on pulloff and find a Massey set up and tested cheaper than you can build a good competitive one
then give me a call
660-258-7951
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Re: Building classic modified August 31, 2011 05:56AM
i run the rules that dirtfarmer has up and i run an m farmall with 2 disk clutch with 4 speed truck tran. and the tractor in 3 with motor at 8300 rpms mph is around 24
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Re: Building classic modified August 31, 2011 10:22AM
Hey Dean, see you Sunday.
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Re: Building classic modified August 31, 2011 11:28AM
used the 460!
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Re: Building classic modified December 19, 2017 01:14PM
I use a 44massey rear end with a support on the main input shaft run 4h and 5th gear with 2 500 Cadillacs never had a issue. Looking to sell pulls straight set up for a single engine running a 650 hp Cadillac in it. Sell with no motor or trainsmission. In Wisconsin 612-810-0041
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Re: Building classic modified December 19, 2017 02:14PM
how much hp to go 24 under load? just curious.
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