Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 09, 2009 12:18PM
I got some new roller lifters for a John Deere 466 block. I need to open up the stock John Deere lifter bores to accept these new lifters and also need to machine a rounded keyway for the little beads that keep them spinning in their bores. Does anyone know how they usually do this? Opening up the holes is no problem but am not sure on the keyways.
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 09, 2009 12:27PM
I would assume your slots or keyway would be done just as normal key ways by using an broaching kit, same as key waying a hub or sprocket,a good machine shop should be able to do this for you.
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 09, 2009 12:44PM
email me castners@castnersperformance.com
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 09, 2009 01:03PM
I am an industrial machinist and am familiar with broaching keyways. The problem is that the lifter bores on a John deere 466 actually get smaller where the pushrod contacts the lifter and the push rod holes actually angle in toward the rocker arms. This doesn't leave any room to push the broach all the way through.
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 09, 2009 03:01PM
Sounds like you have Crower SB Chevy lifters. 0.842 bore if I remember correctly. Crower sells a tool that you put thru the bores in pairs & run a drill bit down them. That leaves the half round 'broach'. Works fine.
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 10, 2009 12:37AM
Oh the danger in offering advise with out personal contact with the other person, anyways the Crower system seems to be simple and effective solution, but the lifter bore spacing may be different on the JD then chevy requiring some mods to the tooling,good luck!
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 10, 2009 03:38AM
the tie bar is a piece of round dowel rod. buy a piece of ground drill rod and you could do 2 lifter bores 35 inches apart.
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 09, 2009 02:53PM
I've done several waukesha blocks using reamers. use a few different sizes and do it in several steps depending on how much you need to take out. they make reamers in .001 increments. as for the grooves, we were using .842 lifters and crower makes a jig that drops in 2 lifter bores and has a tie bar to keep it indexed. then run a 3/16 drill bit down through it and it cuts a groove in the lifter bore.
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 10, 2009 01:35AM
Thanks guys for all the good advice. My lifters are .841 diameter but I am not sure if they are crower or not. They were purchased from Lemke.

I thought about machining two plugs with heads on them to fit in the lifter bores and drilling a 3/16 hole through the head of the plug for the drill to pass through. Then machine a half round groove in the plug inline with this hole, the whole length of the plug. Then I can machine flats on the head of each plug on the opposite side as the hole for a tie bar two keep them lined up. Is this the way the crower tool is made? Also is the crower tool hardened?

Does it matter which side of the lifter bores you machine the grooves on. IS it better to have them towords the outside of the block or the inside?
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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 10, 2009 03:40AM
I don't know if it's hardened or not for sure, but I guees it's a good possibility. Yes, it's made basically the same as you described except it has a cross hole thru the heads with a piece of round thru them to properly orient the grooves. That way it can be used on different bore centerlines.

I'd put them so the non grooved side takes the load as the cam side loads the lifter. I guess that would be towards the inside of the block.

Where are you? If you're close I'd let you borrow mine.


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Re: Opening lifter bores for roller lifters January 10, 2009 03:44AM
That's pretty much how the tool is made. they are hardened. after doing about 5 blocks it's still time for a new tool. i think the tool was about $80. not worth trying to make for that. find a big mill or jig borer to do this in. it's not somethiing to do by hand. Summit sells a tool from comp cams. never tried that setup though.
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