11:18:32am, Saturday, May 18, 2024
Oliver cummins
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Anonymous User
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I just finished getting a 96 5.9 12v cummins truck motor in a oliver 1955. I've been doing some research on how to turn it up (already know moving fuel plate and afc housing foward turns it up). Is my best bet to just take the fuel plate out of the pump or get a different fuel plate. I have the 160hp pump and I've read that a rack plug would help. Would the rack plug make aditional power with the fuel plate out? Mainly looking not to spend much on it right now just want to get all the power I can out of the current setup.
thanks for any help. |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Registered: 04/06/2008 Posts: 309 |
you can cut your delivery valves - Full cuts $ 130 also do delivery valve holders $ 130 these are 2 simple yet cheap power adders |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Registered: 07/11/2008 Posts: 326 |
Go to CompetitionDiesel.com, dieseltruckresourse.com or cumminforum, and here for used parts.. Injectors.. You'll want different governor springs also.. (there are some threads about adjusting the stock ones too.. ) But you should be able to find some bigger injectors on one of the sites for not too much.. You can cut on the plate.. (again search on the forums.. there are pictures of different cuts on the plates.) or just take it out.. And keep your eye open for a turbo..
Wade also mentioned delievery valves.. |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Registered: 04/06/2008 Posts: 309 |
As JDGnut said - injectors would help , i offer a reasonable price on them also single feed 5x18s $ 425 a set plus cores just something for you to think about . |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Registered: 04/06/2008 Posts: 309 |
As JDGnut said - injectors would help , i offer a reasonable price on them also single feed 5x18s $ 425 a set plus cores just something for you to think about .
Also Governor springs 4Ks $ 140 5Ks $240 but then you will need to upgrade your Valve springs as well for 4000 rpm 60 lb spring work good $110 but for 5000rpm you need to step up to around 130 lb springs not sure the price on them off the top of my head but be glad to help ya |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Anonymous User
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Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I should have mentioned that I am going for field class(hp & RPM limited) and open horspower classes which are RPM limited. My goal is to be able to get down to 125 HP for 11,500 lb field class or if I have to155Hp for 13,000 lb class and then do a simple tune up to crank some power out of it. So I figure I won't be able to do to much upgrading on parts or will I be able to turn it back down with specific upgrades?
As far as past history the stock 1955 motor I could only get about 135 HP without building the motor, so at least this motor stock will be a big upgrade! Mainly for now just trying to figure out everything I can do with the stock pump and turbo. |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Registered: 07/11/2008 Posts: 326 |
I think you'll have a hard time with the 125hp and open HP limit.. You'll need to spend sometime on the dyno to get everything setup correctly even at the lower HP....
What is your RPM limit?? even if its 3000.. you'll probably want to change the governor springs.. the stock springs droop kind of low.. basically it will start at 3000 rpms.. but wont open up fully until you get to 25-2600rpms.. (or driving in a truck, it starts cutting back the fuel at that rpms.) I would regrind the fuel plate, and just slide so you can make your HP.. then take it out for the open HP classes.. I would get on a dyno and see where it is with the fuel plate all the way back... and then try changing injectors.. and see where you are.. then you can just pull the plate out... Not sure about the turbo.. guessing you are still using the stock hx35 with the stock housing.. might try a few tricks there.. go to a manual boost regulator.. and drill out the exhaust housing so it gates all 6 cyinders instead of just the back 3.. (or you can just plug it off.. it will be fine.. but might pick up a few HP with the regulator in the open HP.) |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Anonymous User
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That sounds like the route I will have to take. As soon as I get it on the dyno that will tell me what I will be able to do.
My RPM limit I think is around 2600. Right now the motor is closer to 3000. I also already have the turbo regulator plugged off. Thanks for the help! |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Guest
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When you pull the fuel plate out the rack travels too far and pull's around 5 degrees of timing out when the rack is all the way open.. Wouldnt it be better to grind fuel plate according to what fuel curve it needs and adjust the aneroid to fine tune your fuel curve before the turbo comes on? |
Re: Oliver cummins
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Anonymous User
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That could be, but I don't have any easy way to find out what fuel curve I need. Is there a fuel plate already like this? Are you sure running with no plate will change the timing? From what I've read the 215 pump will have a timing change, but the 160&180 pumps don't change. (I'm not for sure on that though). |
Re: Oliver cummins
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no retard to start notch on that dodge P7100! |
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