How much difference is there between a 706 and a 1066 rear end as far as the housing and the internals and can you take a 706 rear and put it up to a 1066 front
I would like to put a 1 and 2 over in my 1066 but was told to use a 1566 ring and pinion but was told the 706 housing is lighter then the 1066 so what is the best setup to use
what would be the best setup to run I am running a 640 cubic motor at 2600 rpm in a hot farm class I am looking to run a 1 and two over gear but what would be the best combination
What are you running for fuel and turbo to get an idea on hp, water injection? Are you running a ta? What clutch? If you're running stock ratio constant mesh 22/51 low (if you have ta) with a 26/47 high you could run a 25/48 1st and 24/49 2nd in the 1-2 cluster to get a 1-2 over with stock constant mesh but you would need the 706 mainshaft and a little grinding to fit it. If everything is stock in there get a steel quill housing and a good countershaft support that bolts in to the wall. I can't comment if you could even run the really fast 15xx r&p, maybe if you're running 18.4's or something. I'd do all the speeding up in the trans instead of the rearend. The 706 r&p is 4% faster than the 1066, so not quite a tooth equivalent, speed gears are usually 6% per tooth.
I am running a 2.8 x 3 charger with a 13mm a pump putting out somewhere around 900 maybe more running a 3 disc clutch and steel flywheel 5 disc Ta with big shaft and bearing support and running 18.4x42 rubber but I have not changed any gearsor anything yet trying yo get ideas on what would be best
If you're running direct (4th) easily the way I explained would be your easiest to 1&2 over. Biggest thing is having that steel quill housing in there if you are running stock constant mesh (cm) gears, once you rip the teeth off the high cm it will explode the cast quill housing then possibly wreck a bunch of other stuff. If you're running direct now you're not stressing it much. If you're buying gears I would suggest getting them from Karl at Atlas, I haven't had much luck with Allied gears when you get up over 1000hp, Karl's have been holding up well.
I would agree with bc35 except I would not run stock constant mesh gears as they will not hold that kind of torque. They don't cost enough to take the chance on what they will ruin when they let loose.
Thanks Craig, I was in kind of a rush with those replies and didn't get to that part! Get those stock gears out of there! Get some aftermarket cm gears with a stock high side ratio, could also bump up your low side to close your ta gap, have tried 18% and currently setup with 12% and it seems to keep the tires hooked up better instead of blowing them loose with a 24% drop. Allied does have a good gear chart and Wipeout has an awesome excel gear/speed calculator. If you're buying all the gears you could speed the cm's up and slow the 1-2 cluster to accomplish the same thing, the closer the tooth counts are the stronger they are. With a steel quill housing you can fit a 29/44 cm in it. Just to give you an idea we're at 27/46 low side cm, 29/44 high side cm, 1st 27/46, 2nd 25/48, 3rd 26/47. I don't advise running in the 3rd spot but this 1-2 cluster was in the trans when the tractor was acquired. Our gears have shift locks and the 3-4 fork gets alot of wear from running in the 3rd spot, have had to replace it several times. Lots to think about, just depends which way you want to go.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2014 09:59PM by bc35.
