08:32:03pm, Saturday, May 18, 2024
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Setting up pickup to pull
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Our local fair is having a pickup and tractor pull.I have a stock 06 3500 duramax/alison reg cab I would like some input on.The last time I got wheel hop but it still did well.This is basically for fun but I want it to work better.I did block rear suspension might have been the problem any help is appreciated.Thanks! |
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Re: Setting up pickup to pull
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watched it happen
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You WILL bend front suspension/steering components. Do NOT pull this truck again!
If you do pull, get someone to video the pass, and you will never pull it again after you watch. Have them make sure they can see how far toed in the front tires get under power. Have phone number of tow company with rollback programmed into your cell phone. |
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Re: Setting up pickup to pull
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3D
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Very simple fix to the front suspension problem. Take a wrench and turn the torsion bar adjustment bolt out until the front suspension lays down. Usually it takes about 20 to 25 turns of the bolt depending on your truck. Use a jack to lift truck up so the bolt turns easier. |
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Re: Setting up pickup to pull
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3 words: TIE ROD SLEEVES. <<<SOLVES all the problems associated with bending tie rods and the suspension breaking. |
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Re: Setting up pickup to pull
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Anonymous User
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lower the frontend put tierod sleeves on it and build you some traction bars and dont run to aggressive of a tire. 4lo and lock it in 3rd gear. |
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Re: Setting up pickup to pull
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Anonymous User
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There are a few key things to do. And you wont destroy your front end if setup correctly.
These are some things to do and they are cheap and easy. I can go into more detail if needed. First lets adress the front end. You will want tie rod sleeves. If you know your way around machining, you can make your own. Otherwise several companies offer them. PPE, Super Diesel, Crank it up Diesel and Upstate Diesel Performance. Since UDPs # is the one I have in front of me I will give it to you, his name is Jim, they are front new york. Their sleeves are made from 304 Stainless. I run them on my truck. his number is607-745-3069. If he doesnt answer leave him a message, he still works a day job as diesel performance isnt his full time job yet, great guy to work with. Next is the centerlink. it is the reason the tires tow in. this is not bending or breaking, its just what it does. Now its not crucial but sometimes it does break a CV shaft. These are cheap though and take about 15 minutes to swap, but lets make sure you dont break one to begin with. You need to prevent the Centerlink from rotating which is what causes the tires to toe in. To do this there are several ways, cheap, expensive, permanent and temporary. The Cheapest and easiest way to do this is to simply wrap a ratchet strap around the centerlink and ratchet it tight to the frame. here is a link to a pic of it [www.duramaxdiesels.com]. Another way to do it, is to purchase braces. I know cognito makes these and im sure others do. These work good for a street truck, and are more permanent. The grand pooh bah way to do it is to purchase a straight centerlink. PPE Super Diesel and crank it up diesel all make this. But they are not very nice for a daily driver as they turn the tires up on edge when making sharp turns and makes the truck a little squirly. And finally you will want to remove the torsion bar bolts. Count the turns as you remove them so you know how many turns to turn them when you reinstall them if you do not do this your alignment will be off. You will need an 18mm socket and a breaker bar or ratchet, never use an impact as it will bend the bolts. Now for the rear end. To keep the rear end from hopping there are a couple things you can do. Blocking the suspension is a great idea. Then you can either add traction bars or clamp the front side of the overload leafs to the other leafs. Traction bars are a better way to go but if it is just for one pull clamping the springs will work. i know many pullers who do this and have good luck. And buck spruill ran 9s in his Duramax with just clamps. I like to run the rear tires at 50psi and fronts at 25psi. But this really depends on the tires, the truck, and the track conditions. If you can add weight and have some weights laying around, go for it. You will need to make a bracket using 3x3 tube that will slide into where the tow hooks are. The tow hooks will need to be removed and the 3x3 tube will need to be cut down to 1.5" to slide underneath one of the crossmembers. Other than that, just put it in 4lo, and 3rd gear and let the truck do the rest. |
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