Just looking for advice on how to make my hitch, and seeing if someone has done something that won't work and what does work, I am going to leave the p.t.o. housing on, as I am breaking the goldin rule of still farming with this tractor! at least for a couple of years
Thanks Kyle
Should I pull off the stock hooking point/ pin under the tractor, or pull from a point behind the back Axel, I know I have herd both side of the story, some say where the manufacture hooks is the best and some say behind the Axel for better weight transfer, but I guess where it is supported on the end of the draw bar, where where you can pin it to hold it in the center cause it to pull down as if where mounted just back there, or am I thinking wrong
Well I Use ,Factory Point Of Hitch On Mine, Seems Good On Weight Transfer, We Have Redrilled Factory Drawbar,An Slid It Bac In For Pullin..An Slide It Back Out When Needed,, On 4440 We Just Had A Second Draw Bar Made, What Class Are U Goin To Pull?Cant Up Load Pic,, Send Me A Phone No. Or Email I Send Some Pic, I See If i Can Post Couple Pic.
I am going to run a 12000lb. Non turbo class and they allow cut tires, iI still got to get some rims and tires so iI can know where i need to go up or down, then do iI just a clevis through my drawbar? Or make one with a big hole
Make one with a big hole in it.. Or get a big clevis and weld it to a plate horizontal and bolt it to your draw bar.. (if you don't want to weld up a factory draw bar..)
It doesn't make a bit of difference where the hitch is mounted to the tractor, so long as it fits the rules and is strong enough. For a puller that you still use, make a drawbar the length you want, and mount it like the factory one, with a way to adjust the height.
