Like the others have said, it may work for a little while depending on how much power you are making but eventually the spiders will gall to the cross shaft. When this happens it shears off the bolt that keeps the cross shaft in the housing. Sometimes then the cross shaft will come out of the housing while pulling or just driving around and hit the pto shaft or the lube pump aand cause all kinds
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Is the top of your radiator mounted lower than the cylinder head? If it is, you need a way to allow the air to escape when filling with coolant. If not, your head and possibly part of your engine will have a huge air pocket that it can't get rid of. And if your head gasket leaks just a little combustion pressure into the water, it will cause this air pocket all over again. You really need a
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I know very little about ih tractors as I usually work on John Deeres. To figure the ratio on any tractor you would multiply the tooth count of all the driven gears and divide by all the drive gears. I believe on an Ih this would include the constant mesh gears, speed gears, range gears, the ring and pinion gears and also the bull pinion and bull gears.
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Most guys will run a three speed pulling transmission with new top shaft and counter shaft. Some put a 4020 ring and pinion in the 4010 as it is stronger and also goes faster. The differential also needs needle bearings and some also needle the sides of planetary gears.
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I have done a few of these and we used Darton sleeves with no o rings on the bottom. When you bore the block to 466 specs, the original oring grooves in the bottom of the block will be gone. I just machined the bottom of the block .001" smaller than the bottom of the sleeve and put sealer around the bottom of the sleeve and then pressed them in. They never leaked water. This was for a puller so I
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How many rpm are you planning on running? If you run 6000 rpms, you will need a ratio that is half as fast as the diesels. So if they are running 19:1, you would need to run a 38:1 ratio to go the same speed as them.
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David I am not sure from your post if you are going to run a turbo or not. My reply was assuming you were not but if you are, I think you will atleast be in the ballpark.
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Around here we have a class of diesels weighing 7700 lbs with unlimited rpm that run in the range of 19-22 :1 ratio. We also have a class of 6500 lb v8 tractors with 500+ inches that are limited to 6000 rpm and these run in the range of 44-46:1 ratio. So I would say your ratios are going to be too fast.
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John Deere heads have 30 degree valve seats from the factory and if you are using them for pulling, you should go to 45 degree seats for better flow. So you will need to recut the seats and also to put heavier springs on, you will need to cut the spring pockets out larger. You also should go to smaller 11/32 valve guides which also means that you will have to install new guides. So there is a lot
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Donnie, I am not much of an IH man but If you cant find a plate, I have some that are cast solid and could be machined and drilled to mount about any pump. A local class used to run roosamaster pumps and these castings were made to mount roosamaster pumps on a 466. I could do the machining for you if you gave me the dimensions on your pump. I am no help for the gear. Although If you can find one
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My son has a 16 year old girl friend that lives on a 100 acre dairy farm that her and her mother runs. Her mom and dad got divorced a while back and her mother got the farm. They milk about 35 cows and seem to do very well. They have nice equipment and good cows. Alot of the cows milk over 100 lbs. They hire the planting and harvesting but do all their own ground preperation and round baling and
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Heavier than stock springs are required mostly because of the higher than stock boost that you will be running. The intake valve will be trying to close while the boost pressure will be trying to keep it open. The exhaust valve will be trying to close and the exhaust pressure will be trying to keep it open.
Lets say you have a 2" intake valve. The area of the valve would = radius x radius x
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Usually they use automotive type springs to get enough pressure, and then you will have to machine the spring pocket larger to allow the larger od springs to fit. You will also need spring locators under the spring and you will need automotive type retainers that match the springs and matching keepers. The pressure of the springs will be dependant on whether you have a flat tappet or roller ca
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It could be a lot of things but I know of an Oliver that made a clunking noise while driving down the road. It had a broken tooth on the bull gear. It was really loud when going up a hill but on flat ground it was much quiter when the load was off it.
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What can I say, I used to be an Amsoil dealer.
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The W stands for winter. The number before the W is the viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees and the number after the W stands for the viscosity at 212 degrees.
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I believe they use 6030 pistons and john Deere 466 rods. They both have 1 7/8 wrist pins I believe. You have to do a little machining on the rods to get them to clear the block. I have a used set of these pistons and I also have 5 466 rods but I don't have the sixth one.
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I dont have any pictures but I made a three speed with custom gears for the 3020 and now am ready to start making a three speed for the 3010. I made all the gears but we welded to the original shafts. they didn't want to spend the money for a three speed with all new splined shafts. I only saw the 3020 setup but it eliminated to original bellhousing like I discribed in my first post.
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I recently made some transmission gears for a 3020 with a v8 and now I am making some for a 3010 with a v8. I would definitely go with a 3020 if you can find one. The 3010 has very small bearings and shafts in the transmission and may not hold up.
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The problem with putting a v 8 in a Deere is that the original frame attached to the engine. So without the original motor, there is no place to bolt the frame to. Also most guys put an automotive type racing bellhousing on the v8 so in order to do this you need to get rid of the original jd bellhousing. This leaves the front of the transmission open and it will not hold oil. So you need to make
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I agree that getting a turbo under the hood of a 4010 or 4020 is a challenge but it can be done. I am not real familiar with a 4520 but Tractor data has the shipping weight of a 4520 about 4,000 lbs heavier than a 4020. The hood is taller and longer on the 4520 but if you are making a tube frame anyhow, why not use a 4020 rearend and a 4520 hood?
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I hope I am wrong but it sounds like you have a bad rod bearing. When they first start to go south, they don't make much noise while cold but as soon as the oil warms up and gets thinner it will gradually come back. Why it would have went bad so soon I don't know. Maybe it got installed wrong, maybe the crank is worn on that journal. Its hard to say but it sounds like pulling the pan an
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Wire edm would work but more costly. I like to machine a shoulder to give the gears a place to stop when pressing them on. This wouldn't be possible using edm.
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I use ceramic tooling and run the lathe atleast 800 rpm. It will put off a shower of red hot ribbons of steel that will fly atleast 20 feet and is capable of igniting anything flammable. Don't ask me how I know.
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The ears around the bolt holes usually break off.
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Here is a picture of something similar to what you want to do but this one also has different gears for the high range pinion. The bearing retainer in the front really needs to be made of billet steel like the one in the picture.
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I just want to warn you that machining these gears is no easy task. They are atleast 60Rc which is very tough to cut. Even carbide will probably not get it done.
Like you say, you need two sets of pto gears. You have to press off your old 8th gear on the countershaft and machine off the old 5th gear. Machine the center out of a 30 tooth pto gear and press it on in place of the old 5th and mac
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Here is a set that I made. I don't have any more right now but I could make you some. These really support the shaft and go out past the end rockers so they can't fall off.
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I am no case man so I am not sure about the accuracy of this info but I will tell you what I know. I did some work for a guy where we were mixing and matching some gears from a 730 and putting them in a 400. The gears were very similar if not identical so these 2 tractors are quite similar. I also made him a couple new gears. I believe the bull pinions have 15 teeth and the bull gear has 70 teeth
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