I dont know if all industrials are different or not but I saw one that was about 1 1/4" wider on each side where the frame rails bolt on than the ag 8.1 that replaced it. Also this ag 8.1 did not have a place for the bottom bellhousing bolts. The industrial 8.1 had a place for the bottom bellhousing bolts.
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Those little ford tractors are great for light duty 3 point hitch work but just don't make very good pullers. The rear tires are just too small of a diameter to get good traction. I think you will find that a similar weight tractor with larger tires will out pull the ford every time.
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I also agree. Use 2" DOM for the rails and 1 1/2 for the ladders. I used 1 3/4" for the ladders on this one but it would have been easier with the 1 1/2 and also a little lighter.
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The formula for the area of a circle is
radius x radius x 3.1416
so to find the area of the injector
.01 x .01 x 3.1416 = .00031416 sq. in. x 4 for the four holes = .00125664 sq. in.
for the line
.0465 x .0465 x 3.1416 = .00679 sq. in.
so the line has over 5 times the area that injector holes have.
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I have only ever worked on an 1800b but I have been told that a 1950T has a roller that rides on the back of the ring gear to keep it from pushing away from the pinion. Some other models may have this also. I do know that an 1800c and anything later has an oil pump to lubricate the transmission. the 1800 a and b do not have this.
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If I make normal gears, they would be 1 tooth apart or about 6% difference in ratio. I can make profile shifted gears which could make them about 3% apart if you want them really close. If you want them farther apart than 6% I could do that too.
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Stock jd transmissions shift with 2 rods on the right side. When you switch to a 3 speed you only need one rod. So you could use the stock shifter or use 1 shifter between your legs that links to the shifter arm on the side of the transmission.
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I can make you a 7 1/2 and a 7 3/4 gear and do the machining required on your countershaft for $1,300.
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Here is a picture of a stock john deere 4010 transmission and a picture of a three speed that we made. The one we made is the one with the wide gears and the splined shafts.
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I would definitely use a 4010 and even then you are going to have to work at making weight. The picture below is an early 4010 which are lighter that we pull in a 7700 lb class and we only have about 900 lbs of weight on it when pulling. A stock 4010 in road gear is a 22.6 :1 ratio. Which means that the engine turns 22.6 times for each turn of the tires. If you have enough power to run road gear
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I am not positive but I believe they are the same as a 4020.
ring and pinion 47 / 9 = 5.222
planetary 57 teeth on ring and 18 on the sun = 1 + 57 / 15 = 4.8
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You can bore a 4010 to accept aftermarket sleeves that were made for 466 engines that would have a 4 3/4" bore. Then you could stroke the crank 3/4" and you would have 585 inches. It would look stock from the outside.
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I believe that a 4020 clutch housing will bolt to a 4430. However a 4010 has a different bolt pattern and will not bolt up.
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Here is a really crude sketch of the way I do it. The big cable going to the back of the tractor is a pto cable from a truck and the smaller one for pulling by hand is a choke cable and it has a small loop bent on the end to wrap around the pto cable. when either one is pulled, they will pull the pto cable out of the guillotine.
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If you are building a tube frame, why not make a tube axle?
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I saw one that had a broken high range pinion and a broken syncronizer drum. Which one happened first I am not sure. I believe another thing that causes the high range pinion to break is the front bearing housing on the top shaft. This housing positions the front bearing back in the transmission a few inches and the three ears that bolt this to the front of the transmission case are very light
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Seal Tech 630-692-0633
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Going by KTA s tooth count on the ring and pinion of a 6030, the 7 5/8 gear in a 6030 with fast planetaries would have a ratio of 17.6:1
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KTA, thanks for the information. I have never made a gear for a true 6030 so I didn't know the exact tooth counts.
Would you happen to know the tooth counts for the high range pinion and for 7th gear (counter and pinion) for a 6030?
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The original ratio of a 5010 and a 5020 is as follows. A 6030 may be a little different but I don't know the exact tooth count on a 6030.
7th 37.8:1
8th 23.2:1
7th with fast planetaries 25.4:1
8th with fast planetaries 15.6:1
The 7th gear on the countershaft has 28 teeth
The 8th gear on the counter has 36 teeth
I can make the new gears have any tooth count betwee
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We make pulling gears to put in place of your old 5th and 8th gear. If you change the fifth you have to machine the old 5th gear off of the countershaft and triple key the new gear to the shaft. If you change 8th, you will loose all low range gears but for pulling that is usually not a problem. One set of gears is $600.00 If you want to do both 5th and 8th it would be $1200.00 plus another $100.0
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I feel that the only real advantage of an external oil pump on a smaller single charger motor is that without the internal oil pump, there is room for a girdle. This is with a motor with the crank driven oil pump. If you have a cam driven oil pump, those are known to break the camshaft and an external oil pump is almost a necessesity. Now with a motor with larger or multiple chargers, the externa
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330 537 4203 ask for Jim
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I don't see any way that an external oil pump on a tractor is drawing any vacuum on the motor. On a true dry sump, yes. It has an oil tank with a vent to the atmosphere. So some of the stages on a dry sump draw oil and air to the tank. The air escapes through the vent and then the oil is pumped to the engine through a seperate stage of the pump. Any oil that is drawn in the pump on a tracto
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A 4430 in 8th gear is 21.9:1 Do you mean it is breaking the shift collar on the pinion shaft (bottom shaft)? Normally it breaks the high range pinion up on the top shaft. Does it run 8th gear ok as long as nothing breaks?
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Yes I do big block gears also.
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I recommend keying the gears but I will do them either way. I will make you two new gears for the 5th spot , one for the counter and one for the pinion shaft and key the shaft for both 5th and 8th for $700.00. Welding would be a little cheaper . 330 537 4203
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You are correct but you have to machine off the old 2nd and 5th gear on the countershaft. Then you have to either weld the new one on or triple key the shaft and gear and press the new one on. This is also a good time to triple key your 8th gear if you ever plan to use it for pulling. These are known to shear off. Although usually if you have enough power to run 8th gear, you will break the high
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Sorry I do not know about the oil pan. Do you need a 7 1/2 gear for that or do you already have one?
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I believe the us 55 series tractors would also be needled from the factory.
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