fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 19, 2009 06:04AM
We pull in heavy farm stock classes 14,000 singles and up to 20,000 lb classes with duals and need some tuning help. We are running a stock 466 sbjd with 13mm p pump, 4 hole 24 injectors, .093 lines and an s300 turbo. We hit 3000 rpm but don't stay there long and it runs around 40lbs of boost but drops off around 2000- 2200 rpms I think. Our problem is we can't stay on top of the turbo in the gear we need so I assume we are not getting enough air or too much fuel. We have the pump set at around 540 cc of fuel with 20 lbs of pressure from the electric pump. I'm not sure off the top of my head what size wheels are in the turbo - With a stock cam do we need to turn our fuel down and when do we know it's getting too lean without burning pistons. Also before doing a 55 series head do we need to make changes to the turbo - will a smaller exhaust housing and wheel do better to gives us more torque at the end of the track? I'm not sure of what the different housings will accomplish on the exhaust side - can you fill me in on where you would start - I don't want to assume that we have to go immediately to a ported 55 series head, more cubes, cam , fire rings, the whole nine yards just yet.

Thanks
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 19, 2009 07:57AM
Running lean on a diesel is not what burns pistons. Blown injector, lack of good air volume, to high of temps is what burns pistons. If you want the best economy out of your diesel run it so you never see any smoke. (Example) almost all diesel engines running on the street. Fuel is what produces the intense heat, a small amount of heat is due to the boosted air as well. Take away the fuel, you will loose the boost, you will loose the heat.
If running a diesel lean burnt the pistons then they would all be burnt just idling.
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 19, 2009 08:21AM
Thats the best advice I've heard about tractor pulling in a long time.. haha
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 19, 2009 11:34AM
My theory is a blaze about the size of a beer can is about right unless running water. hope this helps.
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Re: that helps a lot February 20, 2009 05:24AM
I love it when you pose some questions and get responses that are very limited in actually answering most of the questions - thanks for clearing up the lean issue but does that mean that I just start backing down the fuel til it doesn't smoke any - whats' up with that - I don't care about smoke I want power - what will keep us on top of the turbo - less fuel will that help?
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Re: that helps a lot February 20, 2009 06:03AM
I help with a ih farm stock but I can help with the turbo housings. The are measured by clearance between the fins and the actual housing. losing rpm like that i would assume your housing is too loose. allowing to much air around the fins instead of through. Especially since it sounds like you are loosing boost down the track. I hope this helps alittle.
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Re: that helps a lot February 20, 2009 09:02AM
a reground cam will help wtih gettin the heat out and the air in. Will make your charger spool easier. Also push the most fuel to it you can with out putting out the fire with to much fuel. Fuel makes heat, heat spins your charger, this makes power. Hope it helps you alittle.
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 20, 2009 01:22PM
What is the s 300 turbo off of? If its off a mack or something, it could probably use a smaller exhaust housing, if it came off of a 8.1L deere it should be fine. Someone had a old style head with big valves on the classifieds for sale. The next thing would be to use a head like this or go to a 55 series for more airflow. You could also use water injection. After you run a better head and water injection, give her more fuel to make more power. The only other way to keep the turbo spooled as it is now would be to run more engine rpm or drop down a gear or two. Do you have a speed limit and rpm limit?
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 20, 2009 02:37PM
No speed limit and no rpm limit - just want to keep engine from blowing up!Smiling
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 20, 2009 02:53PM
I think you need more info before buying parts. Keeping it on top of the turbo, First what are your exhaust pressures? What exhaust housing? I assume you dont know. Second what are your exaust temps? I didnt hear anything. Third what tells you you need to be in a certain gear? There is differances in tires that will affect final ratio. example if the same tractor as yours pulls and has bald tires he will grab less dirt and therefore drag the motor down less and have a better chanceof staying above turbo. What gear are you running in? Have you considered dropping a gear. Keep this in mind, for every 300 rpms, you lose approx. 1/2 gear. You might have the best motor but if you run 20000 lbs in road gear you will look like a fool! Feel free to contact if you need more insight
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 20, 2009 03:56PM
Agree with Jon... need to find out more info, about the temps, drive pressures and the parts you have.. Look on the side of the exhaust housing most S300 have the size of the housing cast into it somewhere... (inside and out.) I've seen 83 to 160's on S300's used by Deere.. and a number of different compressor wheels.. With the 13mm pump, I should have plenty of fuel for the s300.. Once you start upgrading parts.. you will have to look at the turbo again...
Good Luck
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 21, 2009 12:16AM
a camshaft will be a big help for you, a stock camshaft is made to run at 2400 rpm. not to sy that it wont run at 3000 but when it is under a load it is ground for the 2400 rpm range thats were it runs best. i ran a stock camshaft in my 4430 with a 55 series head but i re degreed it and it made a world of differance, so you might think about that.
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 21, 2009 12:57AM
where did you get your cam done? could you give me some tips, or things to watch out for when I cam mine? it is a SBJD 40series motor stock internals, will I gain much Hp, and torque by caming my engine, even if I do not change my head, Don't get me wrong I do want to change my head to a 55 series, but I am told then pistons need changed, not too sure it is in the budget rite now, as every one wants an arm and a leg for 55 series parts, any help is greatly appreciated
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Re: fuel and air hot farm/ heavy farm stock February 21, 2009 01:21AM
Will a "55" series head bolt onto a 404 (4.25" bore) without notching the sleeves for the valves? or do you go to smaller diameter valves??
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