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B.A.M. There's no question that a hot tractor has an advantage in a speed limit pull, since they have the power to bring up the wheel speed on the far end of the track, but as was said before, if there is a fast class option, those tractors will probably not enter the speed limit class. The way to equalize the speed limit classes is to not allow throttle advancement after 75 or 100 feet- th
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B.A.M When Farm Stock started around here, I had the same naïve idea that a 2.31 turbo limit would keep speed and hp under control. Within one season, we had tractors running 1-2 over road gear, making 6-700 hp or more, 25+ mph at 12.500 lbs. Nothing against it- it's what the group wants, but it ain't Farm Stock, and if you don't use a speed limit, some of these might show up. You
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For a cheap turbo, you might try an HX52, common on Volvo semi tractors. The exhaust housing on mine was marked 11, but it made around 70psi. I had a St. Joseph pump at 425cc, 4x20 injectors, .093 lines, slight head work, and a little more cam. Probably needed a little bigger injectors and a fancy turbo, but for a budget build, it ran good in Farm Stock until the IH guys got crazy.
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I was a Matco Tools dealer for the past 24 years, just recently closed, and we sold Nu-Tec (with Matco's name on them). I have one of these for myself, and have been very impressed with it. I previously had a ThermalDynamics, and while it held up fine, it would never cut 3/8" like it was supposed to. This 3/8" rated Nu-Tec slices right through it. Don't know who sells them other than Ma
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toolz
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Around here, farm stockers are running 25+ mph, BUT must have roll bar, steel flywheel, blanket, and tie bars. No, it's not what I would call farm stock, but at least it's safe. I would still be in the class if it wouldn't have gotten so crazy, but majority rules.
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toolz
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Nothing needs to be done on the rear plate. The rails bolt up to the front of the plate, so the width doesn't matter. It will stick out the sides a little. The front cover needs to have about an inch removed from each side. The bolt holes are plenty deep, but they are not at the same "height" as the 706 motor. After you trim for width, the bottom of the ear needs to be notched up to about th
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toolz
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With the clutch lever back, reach in through the clutch access hole (plate on left side of housing) and rotate the clutch assembly till you see a small spring loaded pin. Pull back on the pin and rotate the apply linkage clockwise a couple of notches, then release the pin. Try the clutch lever- should take about 50 lbs of push to engage it. If it's not tight enough, keep adjusting till it is
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toolz
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Google "moroso pan evac". Used them on my drag cars. Summit or Jegs should have them.
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toolz
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Never built one, but I would think there would be an advantage to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. If the carb is pitched down some, it would run more level when pulling, or when the front end rises. I'd keep the engine low.
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toolz
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With the rear mounted solid to the chassis, it won't make a bit of difference. Keep things in line and save your u-joints. On a suspended rear, like in a street pickup, a slight downward angle will keep the u-joints in line when under load due to spring wrap up. Won't affect traction.
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toolz
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It doesn't make a bit of difference where the hitch is mounted to the tractor, so long as it fits the rules and is strong enough. For a puller that you still use, make a drawbar the length you want, and mount it like the factory one, with a way to adjust the height.
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toolz
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The HX52 is used on Volvo truck engines, and seem to pop up on Ebay quite a bit. I think I paid $350 for a good one. Don't know the wheel sizes, but the inlet was 2.67" and the exhaust housing was marked 11, but I don't think it could really be that small, as compared to a 17 or 19 on an HX50. It bolted up to a factory T4 flange, but had to make an exhaust elbow as that side was 4". I r
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toolz
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Take a look at an HX52. Made 60+ psi on a mild 504 for me. Cheap to buy, and performed better than a 3LM466.
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toolz
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If you're running cast pistons, I wouldn't go with more than 125 hp kit. Forged pistons will put up with plenty if the system is set up right. Listen to the kit builder, and use a low fuel pressure cut-out switch. Your HEI will be fine with a small kit. You'll need a good fuel pump for the extra volume. The need for a good ignition system is not for an "over rich" condition- if the
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toolz
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Didn't give up on the Case to build a red one- had the 560 long before the 1175. Just decided to get out of IPA farm stock. Built a Minnie for heavy antique and had a blast last season (5 wins). Might jump into IPA outlaw someday.
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toolz
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A friend has been running one at well over 400hp for the last 3 or 4 seasons, but the trans is apart right now. The "clutch" is kinda harsh when getting the sled moving. The power shift also eats a lot of horse power, but being able to shift in a farm stock class is a plus. Deciding if it's a good choice depends on how crazy your "farm stock" rules are.
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toolz
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I would stay away from Illinois- crappy economy and corrupt government (I live there). Try Kentucky or Missouri for low cost of living and a mild climate.
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toolz
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Yes, the hood need to be stretched- I picked up a couple of rough hoods to make a longer one, as well as the side tin. If you use a tractor front cover, you gotta cut on the mounting ears to fit the frame rails, but it's not a hard job. The rear plate from any 66-86 series tractor will fit. You can just add on to your existing frame rails if you want. I found a local farmer with a junk 856 f
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toolz
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Re: UPA - 11 years ago
Did they pull in Delavan today, or get rained out?
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toolz
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I used 856 rails (same as 806,1206,1256) and I think they would be long enough for a row crop tractor. They are 2 9/16 longer than 560 rails. Mine's a Wheatland, so I had to go a little longer due to the front bolster interfering with the front pulley.
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toolz
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Can't do it without stretching the frame and sheetmetal. I did see one that had the dash and steering column moved forward to allow for the longer engine, but the frame rails still need to be longer.
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toolz
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On the maiden voyage with my new '08 F350 back in late '07, I had about 19,000 on the trailer from MN back to central IL. That's 3 trailers ago, now have a 40' PJ hydraulic tail, and it has two tractors on it right now. I just sold my drop deck semi trailer that I pulled with a single axle Freightliner- the wife won't ride in it, so I went back to the pickup. I'll us
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toolz
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Ian- A few of us around Champaign were pulling about anywhere that would have us. Casey has an 8 mph class, and the guys down south have tons of pulls- St Rose, Beckemeyer, Ramsey, Tamaroa, Stewardson, Raymond, Butler, Marion, Newton, Shumway, Waterloo, Greenup, and that's only about 1/4 of them. Nice thing about those southern pulls is that you can hook as many as 6 times, if you want to sl
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toolz
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Quotelets understand something
If this is the way you want it as far as being stock only with no modifications and simply entry level or what ever you call it, then i know of at least two tractors that should be in the profarm class instead of farm stock, then most other tractors would be competitive against each other and stay (STOCK). But things like this need to be brought up in the meetings (
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Quotehey toolz
FIRST i would commend the ipa for its forward thinking in helping keep the group a very good choice for county fairs and festivals. most fairs can not pay out the big purses for itpa so that makes our group very atracttive choice. the crowd enjoy speed plus power, the farm stock class had to evolve to something more than a 10 mph set class. you need to think out side the box alit
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I should probably clarify- I stated that I left the class because of the rule changes- not exactly the case. We knew going in that the safety rules would be changed for the second season. For me, it was more that the rules permitted, and more or less required, big money to be spent to be competitive. I had hoped for an entry level class, with the big money moving to, or staying with, pro farm. Th
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toolz
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Wrong. Safety rules were in either way. Had nothing to do with 2750 rpm.
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toolz
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After being involved in setting up the class, and having input on the rules, I will defend the top tractors (even though they kicked my a$$!) They were within the rules, and I commend them for what they are able to accomplish. My lack of experience and my naivety led me to believe that a 2.3 turbo limit would keep everybody out of road gear. Boy, was I wrong! They're running OVER road gear.
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toolz
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I don't remember equalizing the RPM having anything to do with the safety equipment requirements. I'll have to say BS on that. Had nothing to do with Case tractors, and by the way, I sold mine because of the rule changes. There will only be one. Rules make red the only viable choice, and if I ever come back to the class, that's what I'll have.
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toolz
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Steel flywheel, trans blanket, tie bars, roll bar, 2750 rpm for all brands. That's all I can remember.
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