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Here's some good info on MM cylinder heads. Hope the link works.
There is a standard 800, about 125 hp if I remember right. The 800HD was around 165 on nat. gas I think.
I have 4231 heads on my 605HD, 4232 are higher compression and more desirable. You should get your hands on those. Can't help you on the block difference.
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I think it would be fine if you never pull any more than what a stock 560 would do. But then, there would be no reason to do it, unless you have an engine laying around. I plan on pulling mine some, just local stuff, and I'll take it to a few plow days, but no more than a 4-bottom.
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toolz
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Doing a 560 with a 400 series right now. PM me with your email if you want the details.
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toolz
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There would be some advantages- could run a lot tighter piston to wall, since they wouldn't expand nearly as much as aluminum. They wouldn't burn as easy, ring lands would be a lot stronger, and they would not be 3 times heavier. It takes a lot more aluminum to equal the strength of steel. Just compare an aluminum connecting rod to a steel one. In drag racing at least, a good steel rod
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toolz
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I went through this last year- decided to quit using (abusing) my dually to haul around 30k of tractors and trailer. I bought a FL70 Freightliner with a 60" sleeper, air ride/air brake and a C series Cummins. They can be found cheap. This one had 190,000 on it, so should last forever for the 2-3000 miles a year that I will put on it. I sold the gooseneck and bought an older drop deck trailer with
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toolz
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Mitch- The point Floyd was trying to make is to remove the T/A and replace it with a 2 speed for more gear choices. You would no longer have a T/A, and the 2 speed is shifted like a regular trans- when stopped. I have to agree with him that using a gear you can pull at the end of the track is just as effective as yanking the T/A when you run out of power in a higher gear. Might be a benefit with
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toolz
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Still can't believe nobody got hurt. At the end of the video you can see the tops of all the spectators' heads behind the dirt pile. A few more feet to the right and those poeple would have never seen it coming. That's the main (only) channel from one side of the track to the other, always full of people.
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toolz
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Talked to Floyd yesterday. Leave a message, he'll call you back.
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toolz
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I got my 7/8" spacer from Floyd Isbell. If you machine the stock 414-466 flywheel for the 450 ring gear, the 7/8" spacer will get the ring gear to meet with your stock starter, if the 450 is the same as a 560 at the clutch housing, which I think it is. Problem is, the clutch will then be 3/4" too far forward and won't meet the input shaft, or the throwout bearing. The spacer has to be 1 5/8"
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toolz
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Did the measuring tonight- The input shaft is 3/4" too short. I think I'm going to have a new spacer made (1 5/8") and machine the flywheel to set the ring gear 3/4" deeper. I'm not happy about spacing the flywheel that far off the crank, but I'll use grade 9 bolts with locktite and see what happens.
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toolz
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Looks like I might have steered you wrong on the flywheel. Got mine bolted up yesterday, and the trans input shaft is a bit short. Either I have to find a way to make it longer, or re-machine the flywheel to set the ring gear deeper, and space the flywheel farther from the crank. I haven't measured yet, but it looks like 1/2-3/4" short. I'm gonna bolt it together tonight without the clu
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toolz
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I'm not doing a thing to my 560. The 414 I'm using is N/A out of a 966, dynos at 105hp. All I'm doing with it is some antique pulls. If you were to use it daily in the field with a heavy load, I'm sure things would have to be improved, but I don't know much about how to do it.
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toolz
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Factory rear 414 plate will bolt to the 450 bell. 560 rear plate will not work since it will not bolt to the 414. The 86 series rails will make it easy, but I don't know how your 450 front bolster will fit- the 86series rails are around 2 inches wider, so spacers will have to be made. Probably not a big deal. 06-56 series rails are the right width, and are lots longer, so they may be the way
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toolz
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Flow at the injector is not a function of pressure. It's a function of volume. If the piston in the pump has no leakage past it, the fuel it pushes will flow out of the injector regardless of the length of the line or how many bends are in it, IN THEORY. The liquid fuel is not compressable, so what enters the line at the pump will come out the injector. In the real world, there may be micros
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toolz
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Kinda depends on what the truck's been used for. In a pickup that does some towing and some empty running, I'm sure 300,000+ wouldn't be a problem if proper care was given. You said hauler- that engine wasn't designed to tow 30 or 40 thousand pounds every day. My 6.4 Ford puts out over 350hp, and I've been very happy with it, but the 215hp 8.3 Cummins in my Freightliner w
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toolz
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No, I meant Floyd Isbell.
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toolz
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I think Fred Isbell has them. You can contact him at customtractorparts.com
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toolz
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The Case 1175 rims will not fit on the 2255 planetaries. I have an 1175, a friend pulls a 2255- we've checked the patterns.
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toolz
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Any help?
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toolz
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Is there any parts interchangable between HX50's and HX55's?
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toolz
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The 3LM is easy to get moving with- an advantage with a straight 8 speed, but I think I could use more down track. I would like to try a HX50- probably would need the smallest exhaust housing I could find, and would like to use a removeable slug so I could pull elsewhere if I wanted to. I have a new HX55 with a damaged intake cover, but it has too big of an exhaust housing. Are small HX55 housing
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toolz
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So you think the H1E would be a better choice than my currrent 3LM? Thanks for all the replies.
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toolz
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Farm Stock 504 Case 1175, 2500 RPM, ported heads, Crane cam, 425cc A pump. Max inlet is 2.3. Have a stock 3LM-466 now, but need improvement. We are allowed to slug any turbo. What would be a good choice? Thanks
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toolz
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1466 rear plate will work, might be some flywheel spacing issues, but not a big deal. 1466 front cover will work, trim about 3/4" off each mount ear and trim bottom of ears to the top of the lower hole, drill one hole in the rails, and it will bolt up. It's best to trim the ears to sit on the lower rail flange since there will only be one bolt on each side. The rest is linkage, hoses, etc.
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toolz
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Just click on my name...
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toolz
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Not without modifications, but from what I've read, it's not too bad. I'm putting a 414 in my 560, and a 360 is shorter. If I'm not mistaken, a 400 series rear plate will bolt on, and will mate to the 560. The flywheel will probably have to be spaced (or custom). I think the 400 series front plate also bolts on, and will have to be narrowed a little to fit between the frame ra
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toolz
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I think ROB is either really dumb, or just messing with everybody to see how long this thread goes.
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toolz
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I only get to pull with this bunch once a year (Delavan) so I probably should stay out of this, but I have to say that this is my favorite group to pull with. Great bunch of guys. I have no reason to suspect overbuilt tractors in farm stock- my Case meets their rules in every way, and I use 6th gear. Most are in 5th, some in 6th, and I think the reason that the farm stockers are not overbuilt is
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toolz
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I use an Aeromotive 027-11110, which is a marine version of the a-1000 with a little higher flow rate. Yeah, it's overkill, but I had it, and since it's rated for continuous duty, it should last forever on a tractor. It supplies 45 psi, and that's all I need. I let the fuel gravity flow at idle (my tank is above the inj pump) and switch it on before the run. I just have a farm stoc
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toolz
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You may also have to drill another hole in the arm if the throttle stroke isn't long enough.
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toolz
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