They're out there, one in my 1206, runs in the local 3000 RPM class
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Blackstack1206
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Big Red Sled, last I heard, was out of commission for the year.
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Blackstack1206
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Hope to see some results posted later for those of us that couldn't make it.
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Blackstack1206
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'03-'07 Dodge Cummins manifold. Still takes work to get it to fit.
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Blackstack1206
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I have a Zimmatic pivot wheel gearbox on my engine stand, it's held complete engines & T/A housings with zero trouble.
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Blackstack1206
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Now, the 3LM-466 turbo is a simple enough bolt-on, but, there's an old school turbo trick that'll also wake up a 407, especially one that's fairly farm stock. The trick is to find the other turbo.
You want to find a 3LD-305 Schwitzer turbo. From what I gather, it was common on older military stuff, like a deuce & a half. Find one of those, take the V-band clamp off that attac
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Any pump, for sure put an inline on it, either an A or a P pump. Get a double disc clutch in there, a pulling T/A if you plan on keeping a T/A in it. If you can't run water, I recommend having the tops & skirts of the pistons coated.
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Watch Dog, I couldn't have said it any better myself. The line, as you described, is very fine, and the class can easily find itself past the point of no return if it's not quickly held in check. There have always been other classes that individuals can jump up to, the need & desire to continue to change & modify an already established class is unnecessary
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The Northeast group, from what I've been told, at the last rules meeting, created basically a whole new class for these tractors. Used to be there were quite a few that would cross over & support both the Northeast pulls & the Nebraska Bush pulls. Those numbers have dropped over the year, and with these changes, I don't think they wanted to see any more tractors lost to Bush.
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I've heard thru the grapevine that Nebraska Bush made some changes to the rules for their 3000 RPM tractor class, but I haven't heard exact details. Sounds like cut tires & a bump to the RPM's?
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Blackstack1206
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Put a wet bolster from an 06/56 series in place of the 560 bolster. Find either a steering hand pump from an 06/56 series & a steering direction valve from an 815/915 combine, or, find a steering hand pump from a 66/86 series, and plumb the steering accordingly. You'll successfully eliminate the steering shaft problem, and you can do it all with IH parts. I've installed a wet bolster
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Blackstack1206
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Get custom built gears from Allied or Atlas to go in your 1st & 2nd gear position. If you want stock 3rd, then leave it alone. You cannot change 4th, as that is direct drive, and merely couples the input shafts together when put in 4th.
Allied Precision has a great gear selection chart with all the custom tooth counts offered to put custom gears in an IH tranny. It can get a little confus
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Blackstack1206
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I thought it was a 466 block in a combine, 1600 series combine is what comes to mind.
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Blackstack1206
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Has to be a good 6 years ago, I bet.
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Blackstack1206
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QuoteHowells Pull
Yes starts at 4pm, for some reason I can't get it to switch on the Facebook page.
Okay, 4 it is!
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Blackstack1206
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Pull is starting at 6, not 4, correct??
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Blackstack1206
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Put more fuel to it, not so much that you snuff it, but enough to bring down the exhaust temp. Makes for lots of smoke.
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Blackstack1206
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I'll second the stock setting. I too run an inline on a 407, it doesn't like over advanced timing, I think I took stock Roosamaster initial timing, then added the intravance, and set my inline accordingly.
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Blackstack1206
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Pretty certain a 6.7 Iveco was not used in a CaseIH combine.
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Blackstack1206
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There's a sheet metal cover under the clutch housing, just two bolts hold it on, you can see the flywheel & pressure plate thru there. While you can't directly see the splines on the IPTO gear into the pressure plate, you can look for metal shavings in there, as its probably also dirty black from clutch dust & oil residue. If you see metal shavings also, its a safe bet the splines on
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Late 886's, 786's, 3088 & 3288's also used the 358, but odds of a engine from one of those isn't very good
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Blackstack1206
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826 Diesel radiator is a bird all its own, model specific to that tractor only. In the long run, a 358 combine motor will be the easiest & cheapest way to go. Lots less additional parts swapping & interchanging
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A German won't be cheap, unless you can find a complete running D358 from a junk 1420 or 1620 combine.
A 400 series could be swapped in. A 361 or 407 will bolt right in with ease, basically making it an 806 or 856 (or 1206/1256 with a turbo)
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I've taken a drill & created two recessed areas in the cast nosepiece to make the 1256 grille work on a 1206 nose. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.
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Blackstack1206
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A 1256 hood will work. You don't want a hood from a 1456 or a 1026 Hydro, as they are slightly longer and will not fit on a 1206.
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Blackstack1206
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A Zimmatic pivot gearbox, flipped upside down, has worked well for me for many years. Just knock the studs out, then drill & tap your plate for the mounting bolts.
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Blackstack1206
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The DT429 piston & stock stroke will get you 440 cubes, or you can go stock bore & have the crank stroked an extra 1/2" & be at 450 cubes.
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Blackstack1206
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You have to have the original block, what about your cubic inches & your engine RPM?
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Blackstack1206
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It is this Saturday, the 29th, starts at 3:00. I imagine they'll go up to 12,700 lbs, depending on what bigger tractors show up. Generally, the majority of the pull will consist of lots of local pickups & their respective classes.
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Blackstack1206
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Abrahams Machine Service in Davenport, IA. 800-553-8990.
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