Don't mean to butt in, but am curious how the Roosa 450 compares to say, the 13mm and 15mm pumps common on the 66 pullers. How would it compare to an inline such as 10mm A pump? Looking for comparisons on both performance, as well as where they fit in the rules. That's not a cookie cutter setup, which could be a good thing....
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kurtvtx
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See thread called "IH engines", all that info is relevant to your setup.
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kurtvtx
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Replacing a 407 with a 466 is basically identical to replacing a 361 with a 436, so all the info here applies to your question, as well!
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kurtvtx
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Can you put it in? Yes. Without many complications? Define many.... The simplest way is to use 66 series framerails. You may need an adapter plate from a 666, but not 100% sure on that, and with longer framerails you will have to lengthen the hoods to match. This is the big stuff, lots more little stuff like linkages, intake and coolant connections, etc.
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kurtvtx
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Some semi trucks ran large up-draft carbs that would work with your application. Would the rules allow multiple carbs? I always thought it may be easier to run two common carbs than find an expensive odd carb, though this would require a custom header.
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kurtvtx
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Have you done all the math on it yet? Not familiar with JD myself, but it was probably set up factory to run 18-20 mph road speed with 15.5's. Jump to 18.4-38, and you gain alot. Double your RPM's and you are talking 40 mph, give or take, wheel speed. I doubt you would need much faster.
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kurtvtx
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Get ready to fork over the money.... I looked into this, and the clutch, flywheel, adapter plates, etc were gonna run north of $4000. I was hoping to find stuff to do this reasonable for a 3000 rpm cheater class, but everything available that will hold that kind of power in a small package like a 460 is SFI rated, and priced accordingly. Floyd Isbell is the guy to talk to, and he should be aro
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kurtvtx
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Thanks, that is good information to know. So if I get a truck engine with a rotary pump, I shouldn't need to swap injectors, right?
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kurtvtx
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Doing an in-frame is not yet completely ruled out, but when I tear into it, if it looks too bad it will still get replaced. Anybody got an answer to the original questions?
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kurtvtx
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My 2+2 farm tractor is down, with water in the oil, and I am looking at putting a truck engine in it. I am told to re-use my injector pump because of the governor being correct. I have found a couple engines, some with rotary pumps, some with inline pumps. Are either pumps desirable to pullers? What would they be worth? Just trying to see if it is worth a little more to get an inline pump, o
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kurtvtx
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Put a dry filter element on it, put a wire on the governor spring to get the extra RPMs, and put a Pertronix ignition module on it. Some purtists say that you can get the same HP with properly set points, but I got dyno numbers showing otherwise...
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kurtvtx
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Was the genset running to mask noises or what??? Seems pretty stupid to me.
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kurtvtx
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A wheatland or standard tractor with a non-adjustable WF would probably be the lightest availabe that would still look stock. I assume that is a requirement? Otherwise, cut the inside tubes off the knees and weld the knees straight to the center tube. May save a few more pounds yet by eliminating the wishbone support on the back, and I doubt that would hurt if you keep it out of the fields.
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kurtvtx
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They are an easy swap, and are very similar. They are not exact, though. I am not an expert enough to tell you if they are distinguishable by the average on-looker (doubt it) or by the expert "correct police." You could ask over on redpowermagazine.com, there are people who know.
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kurtvtx
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What are the rules for 5500 farm? Tires/drawbar/stock block?, etc?
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kurtvtx
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I have always been told the factory diesel backing plate will work, but if you have a gasser, you will need to find that. It seems to me someone is re-making them, possibly Leaman's, but not sure.
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kurtvtx
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sometimes light tractors just don't have enough weights, or brackets, to pull heavier. And sometimes, after breaking rear end parts by pulling heavy, they prefer to pull lighter to save their tractor! lol
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kurtvtx
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If you guys would let a 460 pull in antique open, I might be able to drive up there. I can pull as light as 5000, and have nothing real important going on that day.....
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kurtvtx
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That's part of the problem, Wyatt.... They can't decide what weight they want to run! What does yours weigh with driver? I am thinking 7000 should be easy, 6500 possible. I know of an 806 gas running 6000 without aluminum wheels, but that takes a LOT of work.
So can't you program a rev-limiter with the chip on the common-rail cummins? Seems to me they can take that stuff
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kurtvtx
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Ok, you guys are talking about a 14 mm pump.... Is that the factory rotary pump on the early cummins? Wyatt is correct on the class I would be pulling. Could I get enough HP to pull H-3 in a 706 with the rotary? Most the tractors in the class are based on 560's, and I believe the hp would better lend itself to a 706 chassis. Wyatt's commonrail cummins is not allowed in that class,
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kurtvtx
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Was there a stock application of a 5.9 cummins that used an A-pump? There is a local class that has a 360 ci A-pump limit, obviously designed for the IH school bus engines... But I was thinking a Cummins would work at least as well, but the trucks came with either a rotary or P-pump. Can a person get good power from a rotary? If not, which would be easier to swap an A-pump onto, 92 and earlie
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kurtvtx
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I have heard they use planks, but when the sled backed up it appeared as if there was an end-loader tire bolted to the bottom of the pan. As the big tractors got pulling, they switched the direction so they could stop them again, then further added the extra chain.
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kurtvtx
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There is discussion from time to time regarding pulling on blacktop instead of dirt, and not surprisingly many have never heard of such a thing. Well way back on May 16th, I took the 460 out to give it a try myself for the first time, and my (now) fiancee brought the video camera. Well, problems here and a botched disc there, combined with a busy summer for us, means I just now finally got it on
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kurtvtx
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Ed Leaman's adapters would bolt right on an M. Would the tranny hold up? Depends.... I know a guy who put a DT360/Allison auto ahead of an M rear end, but it is a fresh tractor so longevity is unknown.
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I have seen someone on this board who sells the parts to put, say, an RD-501 in a 560. What about a 460? Will it fit? Will it limit my clutch/flywheel options? I would like to pull lighter than I can get a 560, want to make 4500. What do the components cost? Are there manifolds available to put an up-draft carb on it? Thanks
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kurtvtx
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They had a LOT of problems with Pullers Inc last year, so I doubt they have anything to do with it this year at all! That is likely carry-over from last year on the web-site. Bob Keeney is the guy to call, but good luck as he is very busy this week. 988-4571
4 X 4 Pick-up Truck 6,500lbs. Street Legal Gas
4 X 4 Pick-up Truck 8,000lbs. Street Legal Diesel
4 X 4 Pick-up Truck Super Stock Dies
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kurtvtx
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Two tracks sure makes things go quicker, which Heartland usually needs...
I would be there, but unfortunately, I will be out of town that weekend, enjoying vacation with my sweetie in Sturgis.
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kurtvtx
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I don't know if the 1456 can compete, nor do I care... BUT, 15 mph is more of a safety issue than an issue of leveling the field. Bloomington has never had a big enough track to safely run the hot tractors, but tractors with full safety equipment are a little better than the 2 hot class.... As for it being a local pull, that has been the case for more years than I or essercrop have been pu
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kurtvtx
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Find someone who used to run duals on their M or 560 back in the day.... They usually got rid of the duals, but the hubs tend to lurk in the corners of sheds! BTW: those axles are the same from M's, through 460, 560, 656, 666, 686, and even the utilities I think.
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kurtvtx
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Most companies used the standard 9-bolt pattern on duals, but there are a few exceptions. I really don't know if Massey is one of them. If they are 9-bolt, just find some hubs to fit your M and you are good to go. If not, you are gonna need an adapter plate. Nothing a good welding shop can't fix! Or if it is a permanent or high-hp puller, just use weld-on hubs that fit your wheels!
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