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I used to have an oliver that I made the throttle lever move side to side to make a shift like a joystick loader valve. If you put alot of power to an oliver 3 speed you need to start out in under drive. The hydraulic pressure that locks up the clutches is only there when the clutch is out and the shaft is spinning. If you are winding it up on the line in direct or over and you start letting out
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I think you would have to divide your formula by 2 since pump turns at half speed of crankshaft
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You have to bore a 4020 motor to get 4 3/4 liners in it. The ones I did used 5010 pistons but this was with a stroked crank. Not sure anymore how the compression height would work out. I think with these pistons you have to bore the rods for larger wristpin. I think we bought liners from power bore cylinder sleeves. Some guys run cat pistons but I believe these are also usually used with a stroke
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404 has to be bored for 4 3/4. 466 the 4 3/4 liners will drop right in.
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I think you would be surprised by how many running in your class will have big cubes.
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the 466 would be the best way to go. You can bore a 404 and run 4 3/4" pistons and I believe you can stroke them out to 585 with the 4 3/4" bore. You can also run an 8.1 motor but they are probably harder to find and more pricey.
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I know classic superstock tractors run 19:1 and faster. Superstock tractors have much more power but they also run much higher rpm. I would assume their gear ratios would be similar but I am really just guessing.
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A 4320 has heavier gears than a 4020 and neither will bolt to a 4010 clutch housing.
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My sons stock 4010 will make 6500 with 18.4-38 tires and steel wheels
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A 4010 can get pretty light. I know of one that used to pull in 5,000 lb class before roll cages were required. It did have an aluminum flywheel and aluminum brake plates behind the planetaries. The ones made in 1961 were lighter.
Im not familiar with a 4030 rear end but I have made gears for the 3010 and 3020. They were used behind v8 gas motors making about 800 hp. They are known to break
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1 3/4-27 is 16/32 DP involute 30 degree pressure angle
Im not familiar with the 1 3/4-10 but they are probably parallel sided splines like a 540 tractor pto shaft only bigger.
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The pistons in these engines are designed for the multifuel army truck motors. The bowls are only about 1" in diameter . The injector only has 2 holes and it sprays at a really strange angle. There is no way you will get an injector with a good spray pattern that will spray all the fuel into these bowls. You need custom pistons which will cost about $3,000. Here is a video of my old tractor after
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Not with stock parts.
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I used to have one and they probably could be made to run but it would take more money than some other colors. There are no readily available aftermarket parts available. None of them had very good injection pumps. You can put a p pump on them but it takes some work. They have dry sleeves so it harder than some to increase the bore size. The valves have 7/16 stems which doesnt do much for air flo
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Are you sure that one of the gears on the pinion is not too tight? If the gear starts to grab the shaft it will make the tractor move just like you put it in gear. This would make sense that it happens when you rev it up. Are you sure there is enough oil in the transmission. It needs to be atleast up to the pinion shaft.
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4020 in 6th gear is 46.6:1 ratio.
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I just looked up the ATI website and now there are 3 different weight balancers for the john deere tractors. I believe a while back there was only 1 size. The ones for the International tractors are almost 10 1/2" in dia. The small ones for the John Deeres which I believe is what we had is only about 7" in dia.
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Its my opinion but I would stay away from the ATI balancer. We had one of the press on hubs gall to the crankshaft and then we made a tapor lock hub for it. This also galled to the crank. Then we got a larger fluid balancer and no more problems. I feel that the ati is just too small for diesel engine of this size.
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These 1 3/4 -27 splines are actually 16/32 dp involute splines. I machine these on the shafts for the 3 speed transmissions we sell and also on the clutch shafts. We use a coupler to couple the 1 3/4 spline on the front of the top shaft to the rear splines on the clutch shaft. I buy this coupler since I don't have the broach to cut the internal splines in the couplers. I use the coupler as a
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Actually if you were pushing the tractor straight, the differential wouldn't be doing any at all except the whole housing would be rotating. It would only cause an issue if the spider gears were galled to the cross and you were trying to turn the tractor while pushing.
What might make it roll hard would be the axle bearings, The tapered bearings on the outside of the differential carrier
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Even if you change the ring and pinion, you will still have only one pulling gear since 5th and 6th are so far apart. I would recommend changing at least your 5th and 6th gear and make them closer together but faster and then you would have two pulling gears to choose from. Changing either the ring and pinion or the transmission gears is basically the same amount of work. You have to remove the b
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I would think you should be able to run almost stock road gear. With a 4020 that would be about 22:1. With your 4010 planetaries that would put it up to 19.1:1. The problem with these is that if you have enough power to run road gear, it probably wouldn't hold up.
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I made some gears for an 1800 a few years ago. Some of the gears ended up being too slow and I still have them although I don't remember off hand what ratios they were. I do know that they were all faster than 6th gear.
We ended up putting in 3 new sets of gears. 1 was in 1st -3rd slot, 1 was in 2nd-5th slot and 1 was a new gear set to go in the low range slot but it was actually faster
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In the the top photo, you can see its bending already and its not even turned all the way
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Here is a quick sketch of what will happen to those tie rods when you turn
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what do you have for a motor, turbo and pump
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Yes like I said in the calculation of 7th gear ratios, the 28 tooth gear could be left out of both the driven and drive gears. That gear is a driven gear when the power goes from the top shaft to the counter shaft but then it is a drive gear when it drives the gear on the pinion shaft. So basically in 7th gear it is only an idler but in the other gears it is a driven gear when the power comes fro
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Andre, Is there a ball joint on the cylinder end of that tie rod? If not it will bend the tie rod or cylinder rod as soon as you try to turn
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the ratios with 4020 planetaries would be
28 X 33 x 47 x 4.8 / 23 / 28 / 9 = 35.97:1
Notice the ratio of the 4010 planetary is 4.167:1 and the 4020 planetary is 4.8:1
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The tooth counts for a 4020 in 7th gear would be as follows
high range pinion on top shaft 23
counter shaft 28
7th gear on pinion shaft 33
ring and pinion 9 and 47
ratio of 4010 planetaries 4.167:1
So to figure the ratio you need to multiply all the driven gears together and then divide by all the drive gears.
The driven gears would be
countershaft gear, 7t
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