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John,
Give Karl at Atlas a call to see if he still does them. We checked into it a few years back and decided to just go with the 5 speed Atlasmax. I just don't have time to mess around with a stock transmission anymore as much as I like doing them. We had to setup a new transmission a few years ago and by the time you piss around setting everything up and spend the money it was almost
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Another guy hiding behind a keyboard. So what if he wants to sell some used parts, what do you think all our stuff is built out of? Spend it where it's important, buy used to fill in the gaps.
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bc35
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Any pics? Heard about it but I have not seen it yet.
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bc35
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I'm surprised nobody has questioned the gtx 11 blade wheel. Last I heard 2-3 years ago they weren't for $hit. Maybe stick with a proven Hart, Precision, or FVP 6 blade with a 101/98/115 housing.
Couple other things, timing may be a little high, injectors may be a bit big, cam isn't known to lug well and your head has unknown work, just observations from my arm chair with 3000
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bc35
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One other thing about countershaft supports, there are three kinds that I know of. Top of the line that easily works without a TA is the figure eight support from Atlas, supports off the wall and mounts where the quill housing mounts with two jam bolts for side to side. The next best IMO is bolted into the bottom of the wall, right below the quill housing with one side jam and two bottom, easil
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bc35
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Also plan on adding a countershaft support bearing. The countershaft will flex from the high side constant mesh and or running 3rd which will cause your gears to run apart which will eat the teeth and destroy the cast quill housing. If you're lucky that's all that will get wrecked, had a cast quill housing explode once, ruined the wall in there making the housing useless for anything
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Is this with the 3.6" turbo?
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Hey guys,
Looking for some knowledge about the bottom end of a 5.9/6.7 common rail, thought I'd try here with the amount of them in the pulling world.
I have a 6.7 Cummins in my '12 Ram that has a weird inconsistent ticking sound coming from the bottom end. The best way to describe it is it sounds like a typewriter. Truck has about 40k on it and I've noticed this noise since
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bc35
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In my experience with them it may be a shorted thermocouple probe. Were the wires shortened at all? Could possibly be the stainless sheathing shorting it. Is the right amount of thermocouple "channels" selected? Is this an actual "Datalog" unit or are you just using datalogger as a generic name?
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bc35
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What constant mesh gears do you have in it? I've heard of a guy putting in a new 15xx large shaft TA in a 9/1066 and used the low (25/47) constant mesh that came with it forgetting he had his stock high side (26/47) constant mesh in there also. Turned out his TA shifted fine, the gear split was too close to notice it shifting. Something to think about also.
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bc35
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It's $20, get over it
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Just got a text that it's still a go, track was covered but the pits are a little soft.
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bc35
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Lol, you're definitely several hundred short, better get to work instead of whining on here!
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There may be others but this is what we use , also will need the pickup , works well off the starter ring gear.
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bc35
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It is just a bit looser/bigger.
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Here's a link,
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bc35
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Make some for me too, Michael Jackson stole mine!
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bc35
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That has to be the dumbest thing I've ever heard. You really think you're going to hear a horn with a prostock turning 6000 rpm's or any other class for that matter? May work in farm stock without a helmet but anything bigger no chance.
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I'm sure the hate comes from one of the best alcohol builders with one of the best light drivers with what seems to be an endless checkbook. They are fun to watch but I like seeing what the underdog can do.
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If I remember right I believe it's similar to a T4 foot 22 Columbus housing which is a bit tighter than a T6 foot Holset 25.
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bc35
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Thanks Craig, I was in kind of a rush with those replies and didn't get to that part! Get those stock gears out of there! Get some aftermarket cm gears with a stock high side ratio, could also bump up your low side to close your ta gap, have tried 18% and currently setup with 12% and it seems to keep the tires hooked up better instead of blowing them loose with a 24% drop. Allied does hav
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bc35
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If you're running direct (4th) easily the way I explained would be your easiest to 1&2 over. Biggest thing is having that steel quill housing in there if you are running stock constant mesh (cm) gears, once you rip the teeth off the high cm it will explode the cast quill housing then possibly wreck a bunch of other stuff. If you're running direct now you're not stressing it much.
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What are you running for fuel and turbo to get an idea on hp, water injection? Are you running a ta? What clutch? If you're running stock ratio constant mesh 22/51 low (if you have ta) with a 26/47 high you could run a 25/48 1st and 24/49 2nd in the 1-2 cluster to get a 1-2 over with stock constant mesh but you would need the 706 mainshaft and a little grinding to fit it. If everything i
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Or you can also keep or get the 706 mainshaft which has the smaller carrier which allows you to run a faster 1-2 cluster.
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C'mon man, you were just in the discussion about this yesterday, I just saw it on the 2nd page!!!
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Yes they are supposed to be but they will bend or twist too if you're making any kind of power (1100+). May as well budget for a solid one from Atlas or Hypermax, if you are still running an mc valve they make a drive for the front of the solid countershaft that allows you to continue running it.
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About all a 2 disk is good for anymore is farmstock, anything hotter you won't get much life out of it. I'll say it is your clutch too, what disks are you running, buttons or Crower (sintered iron)? Depending on your 2 disk from Atlas you may be able to add a 3rd disk to it, call Karl and see what he can do for you.
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You're totally fine running either manifold in those two clubs. Which is better, I couldn't tell you. We haven't had the opportunity to try either setup on the dyno, however, most are running the dozer in there. I personally like it for durability and it is a bolted connection, just build your pipes and it isn't going anywhere, no tie downs, no hoses to deal with, just put
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QuoteT1066
Not sure the last post was completly necessary, if you have be rude just move on and leave your comment in your head
Of course it's necessary, where is the professionalism? I wish the guy luck with his business but come on, look at the joke its turned into
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